How Do I Prune Red and White Currant Bushes?

Red and white currants are pruned quite differently to blackcurrants because they fruit on a permanent framework of older wood, producing short fruiting spurs along the main stems rather than requiring constant renewal from the base. The aim is to maintain a clear, open goblet shape with a short leg at the base and a framework of permanent branches that carry fruit year after year.

The goblet shape and why it matters

Red and white currant bushes are trained to a goblet or open-vase form: a short clear stem (leg) of around 10–15 cm, then four to six main framework branches radiating upward and outward, leaving the centre of the bush open. This shape lets light and air into the centre of the bush, which improves fruit ripening and reduces fungal disease. It also makes picking much easier. Once the framework is established — usually by the end of the third year — pruning is simply a matter of maintaining this shape.

Winter pruning

The main pruning of red and white currants is done in winter between November and February when the bush is dormant. Each year, shorten the sideshoots growing from the main framework branches to two or three buds from the base. These shortened sideshoots develop into fruiting spurs — short woody knobs that carry clusters of flowers and fruit. The main framework branches themselves can have their leading tips shortened by about a third to encourage bushy, branching growth.

Summer pruning

A second, lighter pruning in midsummer (around July) significantly improves fruit quality. Pinch or cut back the young sideshoots that have grown from the framework during the current season to four or five leaves. This summer pinching lets more sunlight reach the developing fruit, improving ripening and colour, and helps to reduce the buildup of aphids and mildew in the dense growth. It is not essential but makes a noticeable difference to fruit quality.

Removing old or unproductive wood

Over time, some framework branches may become crowded, crossing, or carrying clusters of congested spurs that produce smaller and smaller fruit. These can be cut back entirely to make room for a replacement branch from lower on the stem. If you are working with a mature, established bush, aim to replace no more than one main branch per year to avoid weakening the plant. Always cut back to a healthy young shoot or to a bud facing in the direction you want new growth to go.

Clearing the leg and removing suckers

Keep the clear leg of the bush free of shoots. Any growth sprouting from the base or from the leg below the framework should be rubbed off or cut out cleanly. Left unchecked, these shoots draw energy away from the fruiting framework and quickly clutter the base of the bush. Red and white currants are usually grown on their own roots (not grafted), so basal shoots are not rootstock growth — they are still the same variety — but they are still unwanted.

Tools and timing

Use sharp, clean secateurs for all pruning. Make cuts just above outward-facing buds at a slight angle sloping away from the bud. This encourages the bush to grow outward and keeps the centre open. Disinfect tools between bushes if any show signs of disease. Avoid pruning in wet weather when fungal spores are abundant.