How Do I Take Cuttings from a Grapevine?

Grapevines are among the easiest woody plants to propagate from cuttings. Hardwood cuttings taken in winter root readily without any special equipment, heat, or rooting hormone — a pencil of last year's wood pushed into the ground is a time-honoured and highly effective method. Understanding the right timing, preparation, and aftercare ensures a high success rate and transplantable plants within a single growing season.

Taking hardwood cuttings in winter

The ideal time to take cuttings is during winter pruning — December to February — when the vine is dormant. Select well-ripened, brown, pencil-thickness canes from last season's growth. Cut the cane into sections of 20–30 cm (three to five nodes per cutting). Make the top cut straight just above a bud and the bottom cut at an angle just below a bud — this helps you remember which end is which and prevents the cutting sitting in water at the base. The angle also increases the rooting surface area slightly.

Preparing cuttings for rooting

If you are not inserting the cuttings immediately, bundle them together and store wrapped in slightly damp newspaper in a cool shed or refrigerator for up to a few weeks. This keeps them from drying out. Before inserting, gently wound the bottom 2–3 cm by scraping away a sliver of bark on two sides with a knife to expose the cambium layer — this encourages rooting. Dipping the base in rooting powder or gel improves success slightly but is not essential with grapevines.

Inserting into compost or nursery bed

Insert the cuttings vertically into pots of free-draining compost (50% sharp sand and 50% peat-free compost works well) or directly into a sheltered nursery bed. Insert deeply, leaving only the top bud above the surface. This provides the maximum rooting zone while keeping the cutting stable. Place in a cool, sheltered position — not in full cold exposure — where they will not dry out. An unheated greenhouse or cold frame is ideal.

First season care

In spring, buds will break and shoots will grow before roots are established — the cutting is using stored energy. Do not disturb the cutting at this stage even if growth looks vigorous. Keep the compost or soil just moist but not waterlogged. By late summer, roots will be established and the cutting can be carefully lifted and potted on or transplanted to its final position. Grow in a pot for a further season before planting out if the root system seems small.

A note on grafted versus own-rooted cuttings

Cuttings taken from your vine will produce own-rooted plants. In areas where grape phylloxera is absent or uncommon — which is true of most UK gardens — this is perfectly acceptable. If phylloxera is known to be present in your area, own-rooted cuttings of European varieties will eventually be attacked. For a long-term solution in phylloxera-affected areas, grafted plants on resistant rootstock, obtained from a specialist nursery, are the safer option.