How Do You Make the Right Pruning Cut Without Damaging the Tree?

The technique of the actual cut — where you position it, at what angle, and with what tool — is as important as the decision about which branch to remove. A correctly made pruning cut seals over cleanly within one to two growing seasons. A poorly made cut leaves a stub that dies back slowly, a wound that tears the bark, or damage to the branch collar that permanently impairs the tree's ability to heal. Getting the mechanics right is a skill that quickly becomes instinctive.

Cutting to a Bud

When shortening a shoot or lateral, always cut just above a bud — not in the middle of a section of stem between buds. The cutting point should be about 5 mm above the bud, angled at roughly 45 degrees with the high point on the same side as the bud and sloping down and away from it on the opposite side. This angle sheds water away from the bud rather than directing it toward it. The bud should be pointing in the direction you want the new shoot to grow — outward and upward for most situations, outward only if you want to lower a branch.

Removing a Branch at Its Origin

When removing an entire branch, cut just outside the branch collar — the slightly swollen ring of bark where the branch meets the trunk or parent limb. Do not cut flush with the trunk, and do not leave a stub. The branch collar contains specialised cells that grow over the wound after pruning. Cutting through the collar removes these cells and makes healing much slower and less complete. Cutting too far out leaves a stub that dies back slowly and becomes a site of decay. The correct position — just outside the collar — is usually visible as a slight change in bark colour or texture at the branch junction.

The Three-Cut Method for Large Branches

Never try to remove a large heavy branch in a single cut. The weight of the branch will cause it to split and tear before the cut is complete, ripping bark down the trunk and creating a much larger wound than intended. Use the three-cut method instead: first, make an undercut about 30 cm from the trunk — cut upward from beneath the branch about a third of the way through. Second, cut downward from above, slightly further out than the undercut — the branch falls cleanly without tearing. Third, remove the remaining stub with a clean cut just outside the branch collar. This sequence guarantees a clean, controllable removal regardless of branch weight.

Recognising and Correcting Poor Cuts

Common pruning cut errors include: leaving a stub too long (correct by cutting back to just outside the branch collar); cutting with a blunt blade (sharpen or replace the blade); cutting at too steep an angle or too flat (adjust to 45 degrees); cutting below the bud rather than above it (discard the cut and try again from a healthy bud). When you look at a pruning cut immediately after making it, it should be smooth with no torn edges, at the correct angle, and not too close to or too far from the bud or collar.