How Do I Train and Support a Climbing Rose?

Climbing roses do not actually climb by themselves — they have long flexible stems that need to be tied to a support rather than true climbing structures like tendrils or aerial roots. Training the stems correctly is one of the most important factors in how well the rose flowers, since horizontal or gently angled stems produce far more flowering sideshoots than vertical ones. A well-trained climbing rose on a sound support can cover a wall or fence in three to four years and flower prolifically for decades.

Setting up the support

For growing against a wall or fence, horizontal wires spaced 30–40 cm apart provide the most flexible support system. Use vine eyes and galvanised wire — the wire should be held 5–8 cm away from the wall surface to allow air circulation and prevent the stems rubbing against the wall. On a fence, staple the wires to the fence posts. For an arch or pergola, use sturdy galvanised wire or wooden trellis panels that can bear the considerable weight of a mature climbing rose. Ensure any support is firmly fixed before planting — it is much harder to retrofit once the rose is in place.

Training in the first year

In the first year, tie the main stems loosely to the support as they grow, directing them as horizontally as possible across the available space. Avoid tying too tightly — the stems expand in diameter over time and tightly bound ties eventually strangle them. Soft garden twine, budding strips, or proprietary rose ties all work well. As new stems grow from the base, tie these in to fill gaps in the framework, again training horizontally rather than letting them grow straight up.

Encouraging flowering sideshoots

Flowering on climbing roses occurs mainly on the sideshoots that grow from the horizontal framework stems. Once the framework is in place, the annual pruning task is to cut back these sideshoots to two or three buds in late winter, encouraging them to develop into short, productive fruiting spurs carrying clusters of flowers. This is similar to the spur-pruning used for redcurrants or trained apple trees. The more framework stems you can train horizontally across the support, the more sideshoots you get, and the more flowers.

What to do when the framework is full

As the rose matures and fills its support, some of the oldest main stems become thick and less productive, carrying fewer and fewer flowers. Every few years, cut out one of these old main stems entirely and replace it with a vigorous new shoot from the base. This renewal keeps the rose young and productive and prevents the bottom of the plant becoming a dense tangle of old, leafless wood.

Tying in after pruning

After the main winter prune, check all the ties and replace any that are fraying, too tight, or have slipped. Retrain any stems that have come loose from the support and tie them back into place. A few minutes of tying-in work in late winter or after pruning prevents the stems being damaged by wind and ensures the framework stays in good order.