Why Are My Strawberry Leaves Turning Yellow?

Yellow leaves on strawberry plants can have several causes, and the pattern of yellowing is the most useful diagnostic tool. Is the yellowing uniform pale green-yellow across all leaves simultaneously? Is it affecting only older leaves? Are young leaves yellow while older ones stay green? Is there a green-vein pattern with the tissue between veins turning yellow? Each pattern points to a different cause — from straightforward nitrogen deficiency to viral infection — and each has a different remedy.

Uniform pale yellowing — nitrogen deficiency

When all leaves look pale, washed-out yellow-green rather than the expected deep green, the plant is short of nitrogen. This is common in older plants whose root systems are less efficient, in dry periods when nutrients in soil water are not available, and in soils that have not been replenished with organic matter. Apply a balanced liquid fertiliser or specific strawberry feed immediately. Visible improvement should appear in seven to ten days. Top-dress the bed with a layer of compost after fruiting to improve soil fertility for next season.

Yellowing in older leaves — normal or iron deficiency

Strawberry leaves age and yellow progressively from the oldest outer leaves inward — this is completely normal and not a problem. Remove yellowed outer leaves in summer as part of renovation. If the yellowing has a distinct green-vein pattern (interveinal chlorosis) and is appearing on the youngest, newest leaves at the centre of the plant, this indicates iron deficiency, almost always caused by the soil pH being too high (above 7.0) — lock the iron out even when it is physically present. Apply iron chelate (sequestrene) as a drench and reduce soil pH with sulphur chips over the longer term.

Mosaic or mottled yellowing — virus

Irregular, mottled yellow-and-green patterning, often with leaf distortion, curling, or stunting, on multiple plants points to strawberry virus infection (there are several). Viruses are spread by aphids and persist in the plant permanently. There is no cure. Remove and destroy all affected plants, control aphids on remaining healthy plants, and replant the whole bed with certified virus-free runners from a reputable supplier at least 1–2 metres away from the old site.